TheDrip

Spark Member
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    84
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About TheDrip

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • Region
    U.S. Southern Plains
  • Location
    Dallas
  • Current Vehicle
    2013 Spark LS Jalapeno 5spd

Recent Profile Visitors

212 profile views
  1. Since no one has answered, they were Goodyear Integrity.
  2. I've had about 800 pounds behind mine. Drive slow (like you have a choice). Brake early.
  3. My car has 52k on it. I've done the suggested oil changes and put an air filter in it a few weeks ago. I had a wheel bearing issue that was a factory QC issue out of the gate, and the whole A/C debacle everyone went through. I would have no qualms about buying a 50k mile spark for my wife. My car also has a pretty brutal life as far as Sparks go. 17" wheels and tires since 14k, lowered since 30k or so, also has a hitch and tows on a semi-regular basis. 85mph commute to work + stop and go at either end. #1 issue is the loose nut behind the wheel!
  4. I replaced the (now used) donut spare with a 175/65R14 tire mounted on the spare rim. Far from ideal, but if it saves me just once ever again, well worth it. New spare tires are 150-250+ depending on the size. My replacement tire is a sketchy chinese knockoff of a chinese tire, but was only $30. It fit in the spare well (early 2013 build), but now my jack has to live in the trunk space.
  5. 3 years later, totally worth it to do this work. Friday night, 11pm in the rain. I hit a pothole that bent a wheel and cut a tire. Spare had me on the road in 15 minutes, vs the convenience kit that would have had me waiting for hours for a tow. This little project paid for itself ten fold!
  6. I added another 'bad idea' achievement to my record. 16' lumber with my spark+ tiny trailer!
  7. I lost access to Fuel, Tire pressure and Oil Status when my trial of full featured OnStar Expired. The only thing I can access now is the fob functions in the app, nothing else.
  8. Edit: I can do the fob functions, but nothing else.
  9. The app dies with the short full service trial. It is not part of the basic package. Or my on star is totally gone.
  10. The rotors are still vented like OEM, just 2MM narrower overall. Two "discs" with ribs in the middle. The maximum disc thickness for the new rotors is the same as the minimum thickness on the OEM rotors. I'm taking it off today and putting it back as stock until I can address the issue of the disc wandering axially under heavy braking. Working on a new drawing for integrated concentric rotor and wheel adapters.
  11. THEY'RE ON! I DROVE IT! With the 205 rubber, the OEM brakes wouldn't lock up enough to trip the ABS on clean & dry pavement. These new brakes STOP THE CAR. with ABS activation, I leave witness marks coming to a stop from 60. I had a little more grinding to do on the caliper bracket than I initially thought, just to clean the outside diameter of the rotor, nothing structural. I have one expected issue, and one put-the-OEM-back-on for now issue. The expected issue is a low pedal. The full thickness of the replacement rotors just barely falls into the minimum thickness spec of the OEM rotors, so its like driving around with worn rotors as far as pedal position is concerned. Brand new pads and only using them to 1/2 wear would fix this right up, or 1mm spacers behind the brake pads. The put-it-back-to-stock issue is a different story. Not expected. The rotors are "squirming" just a hair off center under hard braking. Even with a concentric ring to keep the rotor centered up (the center bore is larger than the chevy part) the rotors are moving just a hair. The concentric rings are plastic and I'm betting that when I pull it all apart tomorrow, they're smooshed out of shape. Easy fix is metal rings, but the dimensions are odd. I'm going to whip up a drawing for an integrated spacer for the rotor and spacer for my aftermarket wheels. Also I will machine out some little spacers for around the studs. The mini rotor has 16mm holes around the 12mm studs, too much play. All in all, quite successful. Minor hiccups are addressable! 5 Miles on the brakes, and a few 45-0 and 60-0 panic stops to test it all out The picture is *after* driving the car. Hoorah!
  12. And another update on my car. 3k miles into driving it lowered, and the front no longer rubs. The little plastic nub has worn away enough that it never touches the tire anymore. I also just changed tires, still a 205/40R17 Hercules. I went from the Raptis WR1 to the newly released Raptis R-T5. The new tire leans more towards a high performance touring tire than a strict performance tire. The upside is the shoulder is more rounded, and I no longer have a rub in the rear end either! So lowered with B&G springs on 205/40R17 on 17x7 +38 wheels, and no rubbing at all. It is possible after all.
  13. The brackets are just 1018 steel. Plenty strong for this application. As far as painting the caliper red, they're not actually coming off the car. One of the great things about just relocating them out, I never touch the hoses, so no bleeding at all. If I ever get a wild hair, its really not much work to get this car apart and paint the calipers. I still don't know that this will drive well and may end up having to take it all back off. With the donated prototype printing and machining and finding rotors at a discount, I'm only into this project for $75. $150 if you include all the tooling I bought along the way, but that was all things I should own anyway.
  14. We're getting close now. I receive the machined steel brackets in the mail, looking terrific. The brackets were not completed, I still needed to tap the holes to 12x1.25. I practiced some on scrap steel to get a reliable tapping setup. Using my cheap Chinese drill press as a tapping stand worked great. I used a c-clamp to prevent rotation, and a couple of spring clamps to hold the bracket down, but allow it to self center on the tap. A pair of channel locks to turn the drive pulley made the work easy, and I installed the drive belt crossed over on itself to drive the spindle in reverse. Manual tap, but power un-tap saved quite a bit of time. The end result was 10 very straight, very nicely tapped holes. Primer and paint is next, then on the car. I should be driving around the only 12.5" braked Spark this weekend. I also slapped new tires on this morning to give the best first impressions of the brakes that I can. My tapping rig. 100% pure potato camera used. And the brackets themselves, bolted together as they will be in the car, and all lined up letting the cleaner flash off before primer and paint.
  15. Guaranteed they give you free time. There is an ongoing promotion for buyers of used cars to receive 6 months (I believe) OnStar simply by calling in. As far as fixing it, the previous owner may have been wearing a tinfoil hat and pulled the fuse or unplugged the unit under the driver's seat.