TheDrip

Spark Member
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    88
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About TheDrip

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • Region
    U.S. Southern Plains
  • Location
    Dallas
  • Current Vehicle
    2013 Spark LS Jalapeno 5spd

Recent Profile Visitors

342 profile views
  1. Car is over 60k miles now, and still gets beat like a rented mule. I did finally have a "major" failure though. Bearings in the transmission had to be replaced. The final diagnosis is that the manual trans was not designed for high-rpm down shifting with heavy engine braking. Covered under warranty. For anyone who thinks the trailer hitch doesn't cause abuse, hook up 800 pounds to the back of your car and try driving some of the mountain passes in Colorado or California. 3rd gear, full throttle at 5000rpm to maintain speed. Turn the A/C off because you will need that extra 3hp. Dallas TX to Denver CO, and Dallas to San Diego with an 800 pound trailer. Neither was a pleasant drive. My car should be retired into a museum of automotive abuse!
  2. I recently rolled over 60k miles and had to replaced my coolant tank. The rear most nipple at the top of the tank had cracked and would whistle with coolant/steam when the car was hot. It seems this tank is going to be a common problem, as there are a number of reported issues with the plastic getting brittle already, and the dealer had quite a few in stock when I was there. For a part that was only used on 13-15 Chevy Sparks, I wouldn't expected the dealership to have a dozen on the shelf unless they're going through them pretty quickly.
  3. It would pull the weight, but that surface area would be killer. The air resistance trying to go down the highway would kill your mileage, probably have to drive in 4th gear. The side surface area would make being passed by a truck into a religious experience.
  4. I think Ich bought the battery I was trying to buy last week in SoCal. I ended up going to the Chevy dealer, battery was $147. No strange behavior in my car, started at the grocery store, didn't start at the gas station next door.
  5. Since no one has answered, they were Goodyear Integrity.
  6. I've had about 800 pounds behind mine. Drive slow (like you have a choice). Brake early.
  7. My car has 52k on it. I've done the suggested oil changes and put an air filter in it a few weeks ago. I had a wheel bearing issue that was a factory QC issue out of the gate, and the whole A/C debacle everyone went through. I would have no qualms about buying a 50k mile spark for my wife. My car also has a pretty brutal life as far as Sparks go. 17" wheels and tires since 14k, lowered since 30k or so, also has a hitch and tows on a semi-regular basis. 85mph commute to work + stop and go at either end. #1 issue is the loose nut behind the wheel!
  8. I replaced the (now used) donut spare with a 175/65R14 tire mounted on the spare rim. Far from ideal, but if it saves me just once ever again, well worth it. New spare tires are 150-250+ depending on the size. My replacement tire is a sketchy chinese knockoff of a chinese tire, but was only $30. It fit in the spare well (early 2013 build), but now my jack has to live in the trunk space.
  9. 3 years later, totally worth it to do this work. Friday night, 11pm in the rain. I hit a pothole that bent a wheel and cut a tire. Spare had me on the road in 15 minutes, vs the convenience kit that would have had me waiting for hours for a tow. This little project paid for itself ten fold!
  10. I added another 'bad idea' achievement to my record. 16' lumber with my spark+ tiny trailer!
  11. I lost access to Fuel, Tire pressure and Oil Status when my trial of full featured OnStar Expired. The only thing I can access now is the fob functions in the app, nothing else.
  12. Edit: I can do the fob functions, but nothing else.
  13. The app dies with the short full service trial. It is not part of the basic package. Or my on star is totally gone.
  14. The rotors are still vented like OEM, just 2MM narrower overall. Two "discs" with ribs in the middle. The maximum disc thickness for the new rotors is the same as the minimum thickness on the OEM rotors. I'm taking it off today and putting it back as stock until I can address the issue of the disc wandering axially under heavy braking. Working on a new drawing for integrated concentric rotor and wheel adapters.
  15. THEY'RE ON! I DROVE IT! With the 205 rubber, the OEM brakes wouldn't lock up enough to trip the ABS on clean & dry pavement. These new brakes STOP THE CAR. with ABS activation, I leave witness marks coming to a stop from 60. I had a little more grinding to do on the caliper bracket than I initially thought, just to clean the outside diameter of the rotor, nothing structural. I have one expected issue, and one put-the-OEM-back-on for now issue. The expected issue is a low pedal. The full thickness of the replacement rotors just barely falls into the minimum thickness spec of the OEM rotors, so its like driving around with worn rotors as far as pedal position is concerned. Brand new pads and only using them to 1/2 wear would fix this right up, or 1mm spacers behind the brake pads. The put-it-back-to-stock issue is a different story. Not expected. The rotors are "squirming" just a hair off center under hard braking. Even with a concentric ring to keep the rotor centered up (the center bore is larger than the chevy part) the rotors are moving just a hair. The concentric rings are plastic and I'm betting that when I pull it all apart tomorrow, they're smooshed out of shape. Easy fix is metal rings, but the dimensions are odd. I'm going to whip up a drawing for an integrated spacer for the rotor and spacer for my aftermarket wheels. Also I will machine out some little spacers for around the studs. The mini rotor has 16mm holes around the 12mm studs, too much play. All in all, quite successful. Minor hiccups are addressable! 5 Miles on the brakes, and a few 45-0 and 60-0 panic stops to test it all out The picture is *after* driving the car. Hoorah!