bluer101

The hideaway unit died about a year ago. Decided to give the kicker bass station a try. I decided to try it to because the wire harness was the same as the hideaway kit. After just plugging it in and testing for a few days I decided it was way better. So I wanted it to be custom installed flush like the hideaway. So ended up building a new box with the same volume of airspace. I think it came out pretty good. 
 

Last month the mylink in the Spark did the same thing, faint glow of the mylink logo and no boot. I tried everything and still broken. So I decided to replace it with an android head unit. 

2013 that is now 6 years old with 35,000 on it. 

My 13 does the same thing since brand new. 

121r was just too tall at the terminals. It was pulling on the ground wiresand the battery hold down would not work, too bad. So I returned it and swung by the dealer for another battery, done deal for another 3 years. 

Well, three years later and 2nd factory battery is failing again. It’s crazy as both batteries are failing almost the same amount of time. I noticed slow start a week or 2 ago and now getting the full reset with start again. Time for new battery. 

I found a battery at Walmart that is the same size as the 26R in the 5 year warranty. It’s a 121R, I put it side by side with the 26R this weekend and it looks the same. Might pick one up. 

Picked up a new tank with revised part at my local dealer. Going to swap tomarrow. 

My spark finally got the overflow tank issue. I think it’s leaking from the seam. Going to get a new one and do the swap, only have 28,000 on her now. 

5 hours ago, Jackrabbit said:

My 14 spark has a bad wheel bearing at 45000 miles. First new car I've ever bought. In 25 years of driving old vehicles I have only replaced wheel bearings twice. Now I'm dragging out the tools to work on a relatively new vehicle that has fewer miles on it than anything I've owned in my life. Dealer said they could cut me a deal and replace the bearing for $445. I'm very disappointed in the lack of support GM has exhibited after the sale. I'm currently looking at hondas and toyotas for a trade in

Just did this a few months ago and figured out this cheap solution. 

I ran out of the free ones too. I just changed my oil myself a few weeks ago with factory filter and Mobil 1. I do notice also it is a little quieter too. 

Can you feel the scratch with your finger nail? If so I'm afraid you need a body shop. If it's not to back you can buff some of it out. 

My 2013 factory battery went out right before the 3 year warranty. Dealer replaced it free of charge. 

Bet is is the battery. 

You could try the cleaner CLR. But try a very small area first, like a small dab. It's an iron/rust remover. Just make sure it does not damage anything. 

Like to remind all members to please be courteous to each other. This is a great site and would like it to stay that way. 

Welcome to the club. Hope you enjoy your new ride. 

Can you post a picture please. 

I have been wondering the same thing. I used to put rec 90 in my motorcycle might have to try a tank or two in the Spark. 

Well we have a winner folks. New hub assembly installed, smooth, and quite now. I think the fronts might need doing now, lol. Now with the back silent I can hear the front more. But I played it up to my low profile tires. We will see. 

The brake drum was stuck to the hub, so I removed the whole hub and drum together. Then flipped it upside down over a few 2x4 pieces. Then put a 2x4 on the hub and hit with hammer, came right out. I applied some PB seen in photo but it would not budge with tapping with hammer on car. You can see brake dust on the ground. I also put on a brand new axle nut too. Well hope this helps other in the future. 

Maybe this. 

Ok the part came in yesterday and will change it out shortly. Here are some photos. 

I ordered the AC delco part number and the outer box has that number and the factory aveo number on it. Then open that box and the inside box is the factory aveo box, crazy. I know they are same manufacture but box in a box, puzzled. 

The bearing i bought seperate in the pictures is the exact bearing already in the hub, all numbers match. What's crazy is the bearing slips right into the hub with no force, I was just seeing how it fit above the bearing already in there. So my feeling is the bearing just slips into the hub and the snap ring holds it in there with some pressure. The bearing outer race seats in the back by the ABS ring and the snap ring only touches the outer race. Then when you put the axel nut on that only applies pressure to the inner race on the bearing. So I'm wondering if the bearing would need to be pressed at all if just replacing the bearing. I will figure that all out when I do the swap. Then I might have my old one as a spare and install the new bearing. 

Good to know, thanks. 

Thanks, actually there is no cotter pin, just the dimple on the nut flange after torqued. I have a good torque wrench so that's not an issue. 

I have done plenty before but never this issue where you can't buy the whole assembly, crazy. 

Those are pretty cool. 

7 hours ago, Retired old Gearhead said:

Ya, Bluer, I would try to stay away from a bearing only swap..apparently very tight seating and needs to be exact. ABS ring to hub is also a hassle to get it exact. I'm almost certain the Aveo complete hub assembly would fit. If not, go with the Spark hub and bearing unit...failing that, supply parts & have the job done by your trusted mechanic. Working with separate components is micro gauges and a lot of swearing and oops. BTW..as to your service manual question..I do have access to a garage that has one on a computer, so I get the odd use out of that since I don't really bother much trying to fix anything on the sensor controlled Spark..not worth the hassle on a $10K car with over 100K mi...mind you..I really have not had any issues at all...anyways Bluer..that's my take on the bearing issue...spend a few bucks and save your sanity on that. I think you could have that done parts and labor for around $250. plus $1.00 or less for a coffee while you wait. BTW..My Rover V8 is not touched by me for any non warranty issue...cars are just to complex with all the electronics and now you fix one thing and the sensor/computers just ofset almost anything you do..I only do mechanical engine stuff theses days.

I went ahead and ordered this and will be here tomorrow. 

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-RW20-90-Original-Equipment-Assembly/dp/B000EQW1FW

I have spent hours researching the parts between 17 different models. Even the aftermarket full hub assemblies fit our Sparks. But for some reason GM wants to sell all the parts for the assembly separate and be installed with their special Kent tool. Every part for the assembly fix multiple vehicles except the bare hub. So I will see how the full AC Delco matches to the factory installed. 

I know now it would be easier to have someone do it but now I'm on a mission to solve the puzzle. Then maybe it can help others down the road.