ChevyBeat

One more update. I finally added a lamp for rear seat.
I bought vw reading lamp (CN copy) and was awaiting for its connector but that lost is transit so I decided to no more 2 month wait for reorder. I used metal female pins and glued them in place. Ran the wire from both door switch in rear and through B pillar and upto the lamp. Made a rectangle cut for lamp. Added direct 12v & chassis ground till lamp from instru panel fuse box.
Why I chose the vw lamp, it's small and merging well with Spark's interior. I was thinking it have sliding action to switch between modes but it indeed have a see-saw action. But it ends well.
 
Couple of pics.
Lamp with wire attached

Front ON

Rear ON

Front & rear ON

Final finish

Schematic I follow so the rear lamp work only when I open rear door. I had plan to add door lamps but no work done so far.

I am not sure about the error as it seems you have old spark which sold parallel to new m300 in India. If you can get the obd adapter and check for any fault code. These Bluetooth based adapter are available online very cheap like 300-400₹.
Last option check for service centre, if it's still functional after Chevrolet shutdown.

Looking at gmpartsdirect.com, these are different.
Front
https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/auto-parts/2013/chevrolet/spark/ls-trim/1-2l-l4-gas-engine/front-suspension-cat/front-suspension-scat
 
Rear
https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-bearing-94535214/?c=Zz1yZWFyLXN1c3BlbnNpb24mcz1yZWFyLXN1c3BlbnNpb24maT1DVzEzNDkwNSZyPSZhPWNoZXZyb2xldCZvPXNwYXJrJnk9MjAxMyZ0PWxzJmU9MS0ybC1sNC1nYXM%3D
 
Still I suggest you confirm with service center before buying OR someone who really did it can tell perfectly.

I don't see the need for a blind spot option with added price to the car, but I would like to be able to switch on the rear view camera while driving, to be able to turn on/off by command. That is probably a software change, and would not add to the price of the car.

Hi,
I guess you are confused as space is there but no tyre.
This M300 was sold to many countries. Mine is same m300 except it is India spec LS 2010. So what I learnt is Chevy have given spare wheel in some countries (incl. India) while rest (like in US) they gave air compressor & some tyre fixing things with jack placed in a foam donut.
I hope this may clarify your doubt.

Hi, may be my understanding is wrong but you have added 2nd connector (or harness) to existing one. And you want to keep both working for now.
 
My idea for this type of situation is instead of cutting original harness, make a extension which have one side connector like a sensor and other side what you have added. This way you can avoid soldering and rest thing also it will be easily understood by any mechanic working on your car, in case. Lastly, it looks neat. I thought this when I was about to use 9005 LED buld while original harness have H8/H11 connector for fog lamp. It's just my 1 cent idea.
I am regular viewer of both turbo threads. Good luck for your build.

I have opened the engine bay fuse box and it haven't any active component, as I remember. So that have almost no chance of failure, unless there is some very good short circuit happen.
 
yet in my recent visit to service centre last month, I have seen an old fuse panel/box at customer desk so there could be possibility of damage.
 
If you have guts and good electronic knowledge to take everything out and put it back perfectly, then check for any visible fault on PCB of fuse Box.
 
BTW mine is India spec 2010 LS, closer to 2013US. The board which I have seen could be of diesel variant as well.

I measure tire pressure when car is sitting in shade outside. So yes, in winters I have to add more air than in summers. 
Tire bursts are caused mostly due to under-inflation, not over-inflation. That is because under-inflation causes tire walls to flex more back and forth and that weakens the tire. Of course older tires will burst more often than newer because of fatigue and wear.

The white piece is front bumper mounting bracket and you need to buy bracket along with metal rivets. (Oops, in US that seems to be a retainer)
https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-side-retainer-95091641/?c=Zz1ib2R5JnM9YnVtcGVyLWFuZC1jb21wb25lbnRzLWZyb250Jmk9Q1cxMzAxMDUmcj00JmE9Y2hldnJvbGV0Jm89c3BhcmsmeT0yMDE0JnQ9bHMmZT0xLTJsLWw0LWdhcw%3D%3D
 
 
The metal part is fender itself.
https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/auto-parts/2014/chevrolet/spark/ls-trim/1-2l-l4-gas-engine/body-cat/fender-and-components-scat
 
I suggest if you look for GM service centre or local garage before placing order.

Greg, you really gave me good reason to think again for switch. I was planning for similar rocker switch for fog install. But will go with push type one.
Just a side by side comparison. I liked rocker in pic as it perfectly match with ice blue backlight on cluster of my beat. So with other one I need to replace LED, its having white backlight.

Update - today I took off the coin holder from dash and found the dimensions are matching with push button in above pic. 25mm wide and 42mm high. Depth is not an issue. For ref. Push button is ebay item no. 201869700398, for Toyota.
Below is coin holder we get in India.

Stick your head under the dash, find where the clicking noise comes from, take car to dealer and make the guy stick his head under the dash and point where the noise comes from. Otherwise they will replace your whole brake system, 3 tires and a transmission before they find out you just need a mew brake pedal or possibly a squirt of lithium grease.

Thanks LittleBlue, Bobby for your valuable suggestions.
So this time again it turned out a false alarm.  Today I went and 1st started looking for sensor location. Luckily, pointed sensor 1, although alarm was for sensor 2 which I can't able to see, it need car to be lifted up. Finally, decided to try my luck. Kept fingers crossed, turned engine and the ugly "Yellow" check engine light is gone. Cleared P0138 via obd adaptor and turned engine again to verify and its all good.
Thanks to this episode, I learnt a little about O2 sensor. Now, I assume that the water jet possibly hit the sensor and due to moisture it generated higher voltage than 0.3V and ECU estimated it error.
Keeping it under observation for driving some miles.

It looks really great.
Now it's complementing your display name, Little-blue.

Took a quick snapshot before heading to work. Dont mind the unlatched hood and wideband wire across the window
 

Hi Maryann021,
It's feels terrible reading about the finance team's fraud. As I am from India so can't suggest anything about that.
 
For the dash light point, is it Red car symbol you are getting, and the dome light is on, then it could be because the door is not fully closed. As Bobby mentioned that it's not case of bent frame, so I assume this could be due to damaged latch. Mine too is a used car and sometimes when pulling door with less force, it doesn't closes properly. So I have to open and apply little more force while closing.
Changing latch is easy in my 2010 (similar to 2013 in US), just remove door panel, remove 3 screw from side of door and then remove any electrical connector. For door panel removal, there is a YouTube video is available.

Does it have a 12 volt port? Just use that with a USB charger. Then get something like this: 
 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013QJ0W8Q/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B013QJ0W8Q&pd_rd_w=873d0&pf_rd_p=80559f3c-f83b-49c1-8a72-40f936e9df7a&pd_rd_wg=X9ZTB&pf_rd_r=XDC65Y0R06GWXGTBJ3ZV&pd_rd_r=a1be2c4d-5d37-11e9-8b47-e199cf055912

Phone is one gadget which does not need charging while driving. My fully charged Android phone lasts the entire day with power left to spare. Another thing, it is very bad practice to use phone while driving.
 
But if you must need to charge your phone in the car, try looking for a cable which fits into cigarette lighter at one end and the suitable terminal at other end which fits into your phone receptacle. My Garmin GPS works that way.

How much you want for your house? 

There are 2 o2 sensors on my 2014 spark. The first is accessible under the hood in front of the engine and under the heatsheild covering the exhaust. It comes out of the exhaust just before the first big catalytic converter. The second o2 sensor is under the car in the middle of the exhaust, near the oil pan area. This is the post catalytic converter and likely the one you are interested in as it should be sensor 2 (further downstream)
 
If you rule out a wiring issue and determine the sensor is still good, it may be a bad catalytic converter. You can replace the converter or put an anti spark plug fouler on the end to bring the o2 sensor further out of the exhaust so it picks up less emissions and doesn't trigger a code. 
 
I found this, it may be helpful as well:
 
Take the sensors from bank 2 and swap them with bank 1, clear the code and drive around, if the code comes up as bank 2 again, you'll know it's the cat, if the code comes up as bank 1 it's the sensors. the sensors can be tested with a multimeter, checking resistance on each pin.
 
Hope this helps out!

Common young man, why not wash your car yourself? I am late 70's and wash the car myself. My last car, a very nice Pontiac G5 was messed up by the dealer mechanic who changed coolant. He obviously left an air pocket in the system, and when I picked up the car, it was immediately running 10 deg hotter than last 7 years. That destroyed the valves! Now I avoid dealer car monkeys unless warranty is active. Do as much yourself as you can!

Has anyone installed the exled taillights? I'm interested in this product
 

What year is your car? I am not familiar with the build so does it have a throttle cable or is it drive by wire? If its throttle cable I would look for binding or something sticking. If it was drive by wire I would think it would set a code as the ecm closely monitors all that. 

Hi Chevy beat...
If battery is more than 5 years old, it is possible it will charge OK, but if left idle for a week, will not hold the charge very well.
 
If the error codes did not re-appear after clearing, chalk it down to intermittent mis-behavior by some component. So long as car is running good now, do not worry too much about it. When the fault code shows up again and stays on, only then the dealer or other shop can do something about it. In the meanwhile, enjoy life without worries.

Agreed, it was much easier to do on the golf cart. So...on the Spark, you may have to drill a small hole in the firewall to accommodate the wires. Just be careful to check both sides of the firewall so you do not end up destroying some component.  

I hit so far 150-155kph. It really need a big stretch of straight road to go above 150 and that I haven't found near me to check beyond 155.
Although some people on YouTube tried 170kph.