ChevyBeat

If I can correlate, I have same issue in my M300. I assume all door doesn't lock except driver one when you lock it. But all door unlock with driver door.

I have zeroed on the issue as faulty driver door latch, indeed the small sliding switch in the latch. This switch signal ECU about lock-unlock. With years of lock-unlock, the contact inside switch wear and that can't signal ECU about lock. Although it's starnge that it happens on locking only. You can try turning key few (3-4) times just towards locking after 1st attempt and it locks.

Solution is to change the latch. Check the exact part number as M300 alone have 3-4 different latch model for driver side. (1 is very basic latch, 2 latch with switch for central locking, 3 latch with switch and actuator motor).

On 3/6/2024 at 6:27 AM, Wanda said:

I own a 2013 Chevy Spark LS.  All of the door locks are erratic.

 

If you can add little more about erratic behaviour, we can explore possibilities.

3 hours ago, 2017WhiteSpark said:

A friend of mine has a 2017 Spark and both headlight lamp sockets need to be replaced. Can someone tell me which color wire is for the low beam and which turns on the high beams? I have 2 new headlight bulb sockets but want to make sure I wire them in correctly.

 

Thanks in advance.

If you don't get color details, buy entry level multimeter. Set voltage to 20v and one point will show 12v when high beam selected, other will show 12v when low beam, 3rd one will always be at 0v (this point must be ground/negative, you can confirm that by selecting continuity test on meter).

I have M300 and the place for front number plate is small when I compare with new plates, made mandatory in India. New plates are much wider and made of aluminium so great chance to break them.

I searched for prefab bracket but with no results. Lastly, I got an option to make one using resin & fleece while watching one diy video of speaker pod making.

I am not fan of fiber glass so I am thinking using 2 fleece layer and one metal mesh in between, I hope this should hold the shape for long.

Suggestion are welcome, I am totally new to this thing.

Auto door lock is safety feature activates when car moves above 20kmph (general settings I have seen on Indian cars, local set speed might be different there). This is more helpful when you have kids on back seat.

I understand pain as mine don't have this, as in 2010 car maker either didn't have it OR it was a luxury feature available in top variants only.

Yes a modified thing is there, mine have remote locking installed as aftermarket GM accesories. When I turn key to ON it locks car, which is somewhat annoying as many time I am just waiting and need to run fans.

Any specific reason you want to disable it.

Hi folks,

I have 12yr old Spark (Indian Beat). Although it work fine for me, I just visited garage to check anything to be done at suspension end, being 12 yr old, as some people told me they got suspension noise and rear seat is not that comfortable on bumps.

Mechanic told me that the complete control arm, Front strut, mounting kit, steering rod kit, rear shock absorber.

Query1 - what is practice used in US or UK (close resemblance to Indian), if only bushings changed OR complete control arm, since the car didn't had any accident so metal is all good.

Query2 - Also, if steering rod also need to be changed, the guy just looked cursory without lifting on lift even and given estimate. Rest things like strut & rear shocks are understandable.

Query3 - I am getting some squeak at right end (driver side in India). Mechanic told me it's coming from left brake caliper pin.

Don't worry. The components marked in dotted box are directly soldered on the relay-fuse box PCB. Well why, GM can only tell. May be they are super confident that these relay won't fail ever.

Since you get clear clicking sound of relay, 99% it not faulty, 1% exception where relay get click but internal contact got carbon due to spark during switch.

I feel you started from bulb then to fuse-relay, more chance of bulb since these filament bulbs prone to fuse when running for extended time a good jerk can kill filament.

I am not good with engine but what I feel, as nothing happens when you turn key but work well by push & start (I am assuming starter motor isn't in picture in this case). Check for blown fuse or faulty relay of starter motor or wiring, lastly motor itself. I feel it's more like electrical issue than engine.

Good to see a LiPo battery in car. All I am assuming, this must have internal charge controller as Lithium batteries (both LiPo and Lithium polymer flat type) are more delicate than lead acid ones and more prone to ambient temperature fluctuations.

Although mine 2010 (India) don't have any requirement to press clutch but I do follow this as safe way. May be there it's interlocked, I mean for ignition pressing clutch is necessary, to avoid mishaps if it's already left in gear. Assuming above, I feel there could be a sensor/switch which is worn and need replacement.

I am just assuming above, based on such interlocking in my bike. It doesn't start if it's left in gear untill I press clutch. I never tried this in car.

I am not sure if this is regular test process, you can check if any of two wire coming to bulb holder is open. Although harness are built well but anything is possible. checking is easy if you have right tool. (This is since you said both bulb are good and still hyper flash happens. So if either of 2 wire reaching to holder is open, it might resemble fuse bulb to BCM).

This is for small engine placed for reverse gear.

Just kidding!!!

This is a wire connector. As I remember, for my 2010(India) LS this is for connecting the number/license plate harness to main trunk lid harness.

Indeed you can find many, different kind of connector across whole car. connector are used primarily for repairs/replacement purpose. You can't wire straight to anything so bunch of wire is routed through car, called harness and wherever a lamp, sensor etc. need to be connected, it bifurcate respective wire with connector. other side have matching connector, means having same number of pins, mating construction etc. 

I am not sure for replacement option. But one thing I want to add is, you can adjust the stream angle a little bit. Just you need to use a needle to adjust the metal piece in side the nozzle.

For reference:

https://youtu.be/p5Qi-Ny8cYE

My bad. I today read your 1st post again and got I read it wrong yesterday.

Ok, coming to point. Central locking work from dirver door only. Means, you lock/unlock whole car by locking/unlocking driver door. Passanger door they provide lock to open by key but that work for that door only. Only driver door do all job, that's why they called it central locking, i.e. one place.

This is what I have seen so far, may be around the world if some manufacturers provide option to unlock whole car by passanger door, creativity has no limits.

About dealer/retailer, not sure what he meant by "all LS models have central locking on the driver side only." To my understanding, central locking include primarily, driver door sensor and 3 actuator for rest 3 doors, now when someone use key on driver door, sensor gives signal to ECU to take same action for rest of doors. With remote locking option, this driver door sensor is inbuilt to actuator for that door.

So, don't worry, your car is working as expected. Enjoy the ride!!

What you were told is central locking, so you can lock/unlock all door by locking/unlocking driver door. 

If you have one door which doesn't work like said, it must have wiring issue or possibly damaged door lock actuator.

If none of passanger door behave what you were told, you might not have central locking.

13 hours ago, madmex2k said:

I have seen other vehicles where they install an all inclusive wiring harness, rather than make several different wiring harnesses to save money, Volvo does this I think, in every model of vehicle, just tucking away the wiring that is not needed and installing blanks in those areas, i.e.; power mirror adjustment and power door locks like my car has.

Well you said it right. Manytimes it's easy to have single all wire harness than making several. Indeed, mine 2010 LS (India) had fog lamp wiring done. When I planned to add fog lamp, I made mine but found harness was already there. I just had to add fuse, relay, lamps and changing the stalk which have fog lamp switch. Companies keep it modular so they can do add-on job or replacement job quick & easy, although they always charge hefty  amount from owner for it saying how much labour intense it is.

P.s. although one need to look for it upfront. Sometimes manuals helps. I missed the company harness for rear hatch switch, I wish they could have given it like fog lamp.

3 hours ago, gusdotcom said:

 

So like you said it's not just car but your hearing aid also sense noise , best person is the utility company. They should come and test the EMI ( electro magnetic interference) at that place and possibly should burry cable underneath at correct depth.

Basically what is happening, when your car moves from that spot it cut the magnetic field which generates some mV signal, identified as error in OBD. If you can check, I guess you will find only those sensor error which actually send low level signals to ECU, instead one which are usually 12v noise.

Like you said, you already purchased these. Can you click some pics? But first thing is, for replacing wiring, you must be knowing soldering.

Another thing is, if it really easy to access the PCB on the LED lamp assembly, this is why I am asking for pic.

Hi, since both connector are different, better to check with seller of LED one, if he can replace it with correct connector.

I could suggest to swap the connector housing, if internal terminal are same. But the black TE connector seems difficult to pull wire from.

Can you put link of LED one, and few pic of rear of it, how the wire are connected into? My idea is, if you are good with electronics/soldering, you can use old harness to replace wire from LED lamps.

All I can see, a fuse named as starter/ignition2 in manual (India 2010). One relay is named as "Engine main relay", may be that's one you are looking for.

Also, note that if the relay is shown as dashed box, it's straight soldered on board so if faulty whole board need replacement.

Hi Devon,

Welcome to the forum.

Don't feel bad about no reply. I guess many of users are away due to one reason. Forum was not accessible from last Oct. Even I was seeing some error message. Until last month, when I got email about renewed forum. Possibly mods/admins haven't sent the "under improvement/non-availability" email before it was taken down.

Anyway, you will certainly get reply soon. I can see some old regular members are live now. Many have really great and enormous experience with cars.

Enjoy!

Hi folks,

Today I went for annual service and its was ok since it just oil & filter change, it's just 3k km I driven in year.

Car was ready and about to handover & I was busy bill payment, suddenly mechanic called me to show "something wrong". Garage owner was there and he showed my battery heated up and was fuming from both side vents. Weird for me as never seen any issue in last 4yrs except once dead battery, which was working after charge.

Chronology - during service, I asked mechanic about water on battery, he told it was dried so he added (tap or RO)water. He completed job, parked car outside and later for trial he started & he felt battery smell then he called me.

My opinion - battery could be dried as battery shop guy told me it's maintenance free (4 yrs ago while purchase) so I never thought to top it up. Then stupid mechanic added tap water to highly concentrated acid which caused exothermic reaction & possible short inside it. On top, when he started car, it was overcharged (high current due to internal short).

Result - battery died, shown to 2 brand  shops. Even if it have some possibilities of revival they obvious to deny.

Garage owner, as expected his 1st blame was to faulty alternator (though OBD always says its 14.3v while running) and short in car due to my mods. Rather, I shown how I did wiring of rear bench lamp I added with cable duct/tube & no wire cutting and offcourse how badly Chevrolet did the remote lock wiring, when 1st owner added it as accesory.

Apology for long post.

If someone can tell whats wrong where. I have a theory but no much exp for battery.

Already looked upon Google n YouTube but nothing close to chronology I had. It was working smooth and no sign of even discharged, one crank start.

For ref. Its Spark (Beat) LS 2010 India. Battery 4 yrs old 60Ah Exide(leading brand here), new replaced Amco 44Ah

Hi Bobby,

I am from India and have old 2010 LS (M300).

Coming to your question, mine case yes it was just add headlamp stalk, fog relay & fog fuse + fog lamp assembly.

But if you go through various fog lamp post, on forum, even for 2013 US (M300), there was mention of ECU reprogram. So I feel you too need to do that apart from just adding hardware.

Mine case the new stalk was having additional 1 or 2 wire for fog and rest wiring was already there.

I always surprise why Chevy do this kind of half work. Like your case just additional stalk, relay & fuse is cost. But this much can add extra feature.

On 7/21/2020 at 8:16 PM, Desert said:

Name is greg. Need help with my dead spark ev.

 

Hi Greg,

There is a EV section on this forum. You can try there.

https://chevysparkforum.com/forum/58-chevy-spark-ev-forum/

I came across a separate forum year ago for Spark EV. Not sure how helpful,  as I never roamed into it.

http://www.mychevysparkev.com/forum/

Hi,

If only the aerial is crushed and the base or mount is still good, you can try replacing aerial only. Normally these are screw type fitting. You can try to unscrew old one, may need some extra force as it's 10 yrs.

If the base is also gone, I guess what you have shown, should work. As I remember about my 2010 spark (M300), it have a square cutout in roof for fitting aerial base and base have same mounting like you have shown. Just make sure this base covers the hole else water may seep in during wash or rain. You can confirm this with seller and measure same for your car.