KillaX

Spark Member
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About KillaX

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • Region
    U.S. Great Lakes
  • Location
    Michigan
  • Current Vehicle
    2014 Chevy Spark 1LT CVT

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  1. Maybe I'm being a little picky over this but... What do you guys use to clean the rims? I just have the basic generic ones and I noticed it looks like my car has a lot of tan-brown dirt on the wheels. Freshly after a carwash everything looks great and the wheels look like they never got washed. I attempted to lightly use a power-washer ( not sure what they have on these wheels ) and it did nothing. Someone told me WD-40. Which worked, with a lot of scrubbing. So before I go crazy and work on the wheels for hours. Do they make a chemical you just spray on and let it sit/do the work, then power-wash it off? I'm normally not super fussy about the looks of a car, but I rather not have a freshly washed car with very dirty looking rims. Is it break dust? I've seen people use chemicals that turn red when reacting to break-dust and power washes off, but I didnt want to just try stuff and risk more damage..
  2. Mine i can pinpoint enough to say its front / front left of the car. External. Hear it easier when the windows are down. Ill have to really look into it and knock around more when it warms up..maybe under the hood too. Isnt the battery.. Thought maybe someone would have experienced similar i noticed the plastic gaurds have push-in plastic rivots. So maybe one popped loose somewhere when snow hit the bottom..hmm. 15F weather doesnt incline one to climb under the car xD
  3. I was wondering if anyone has ever experienced similar...as i cannot figure this out at all. I want to suspect it started up..ever sense i slowly backed up over a pile of snow that was JUST high enough to scrape under the car. If im driving around. And take a turn ( commonly right turns is when i can repeat and hear it 100% of the time ) i notice a rattle sound. It doesnt sound like metal on metal though. Its kinda quiet from inside the car. But when i take the turn.. slowly, not a BUMPY turn..just a nice smooth turn..i hear something rattling. I have noticed the same sound if im driving on a straight road and hit any sort of bumps. We can conclude something is loose. This has been an on going thing for almost a year now. It hasnt gotten better/worst, so its been shrugged off as whatever...dosnt sound nast..or really bad. I just figured some plastic is loose. The other day i crawled under my car and taped everything i could guess it was. Nothing was loose. Not the muffler/exhaust..the plastic gaurds... i cant figure out what the heck is making the sound. Its odd to me that even turning smoothly, no bumps felt, is able ti do it. I dont know much about cars..enough to say if theres metal steering rods or something that could be loose and bouncing around maybe, and maybe thats why its noted more commonly during turns.. Just curious.
  4. Accidental double post
  5. Im in interest of this as well. Im getting to the point i may just buy it, as sure..300 dollars. But i look at the prices my college books use to be...300 is cheap for what your getting. Specially these service manuals...like 3 phone books worth of print. Plus. I would enjoy just seeinf how everything is made. Tho if i try to buy one. They do mention having to call this number to file tax exemption if I live in Michigan..apparently
  6. Hello all, Been awhile..due to projects / work / holidays. I'm in need of wanting to know a couple things about this car, as its a bit different from what I'm use to seeing. Usually I see a big fat cable that goes directly from the alternator, straight to the positive post of the battery. In the case of the spark, I do not see this. It snakes way behind stuff. Then at the battery theres this stupid costume fuse-block, which seems weird to me. No direct wire from the alt, to the battery. Is there a reason for this? Does this car like...pass the power to some regulator/controller, that charges the battery in some fancy-way that normal cars do not? Its just really weird to me that I do not see a beefy cable being dead-mounted to the battery, for the alternator to charge it properly. I just assume they wire it weird and due to that, the battery probably cant charge as fast as it should be able to.. or may not get the voltages it needs. On the backside of the stock alt. You can see it says 14V 100A. I never actually checked to see if the battery actually reads "14V" during run, but I'd assume it should be near-abouts, minuse V-Drop with loads. We can see the alternator from the bottom of the car without removing anything. At a glance, the boot has nice large cable that comes out, and runs straight up. It terminates to some device ( I'm not a car mech. ) I'm assuming steering related? A similar cable then runs off into who-knows-where. My initial thought was COOL! Look at all that exposed thread on that screw! Just gotta take 4-Awg, Slap it on, bolt it down, run it to the battery, AWESOME! Life is easy. Ehhhhh..No. Because I removed the red cover, and went What..the actual..F. Fuses. On all wires.. Okay, I can respect that. We have a 150A "UEC" which, I want to assume is the alternator? Some 80A REC..whatever that is. 80A EPS..whatever that is. and 400A "GAS"..Really..what is this one? I wouldnt think sparkplugs and all need a 400A fuse? That seems like a really crazy number..especially when we have a 100A alternator. So yeah.. Really I'm just trying to dig up information here. What the UEC/REC/EPS/GAS fuses actually are for. Future scoping things out in-case i ever do switch the alternator some day, I want to verify If its just that UEC 150A connection, so if I do beef-cable jump straight off the alternator, I'll obviously just run my own properly sized fuse.
  7. System is always being upgraded, though I'm slowly coming to the point of 'this is fine enough to make me happy' Currently running JL Audio C2 5.25's in the front and 6.5's in the rear. Pretty happy with it so far, The speakers on a 400W 4-CH amp can get STUPID loud, which is good, because it means my volume level is far within their happy medium. Still running the 400W JL 10" sub in the rear. Pretty good sub, low profile, can hit hard enough to feel it on your hair a little, and any attempts at recording with my phone, results in bye-bye audio and hello fart-like sounds. I'm still planning this summer to ditch the dash speakers and resume my fiberglassing project, of adding door speakers. I also decided to get a shallow-mount 13" JL Sub, made my own box, and gona see where that takes me. I'm just trying to get the best out of the space, without taking up space. personally. I rarely if ever have rear-seat passengers. I have days wher I really consider ripping the back seats 100% out, then adding flooring, and making it a 'large cargo space' as I do a lot of travel, or just need the space for large RC aircrafts. But I've yet to go to that extreme, as I'd be too tempted to shove in dual subs and go crazy. So. I keep things as-is and just run shallow sub.
  8. Yeah its hard to say. Bettery isnt stock, replaced with a 1250CA rated powercell and its voltage is always the same when turned off. So that shouldnt be the case. Plus i would assume the battery ligjt would flash if that was it..and it was just the entine light flashing while the car was shaking. There was no unusual sounds..im more placing it on some misc fluke.. combination of all the belts engaged and stuff sitting for awhile after basically being covered in water. Coulda slipped possibly and took a moment to grab back on. The most noise i hear is when i go from neutral to reverse. When engine rpms bump up gor a second, can hear a belt or something make a little quiet noise, like maybe slipping, then all is fine. But thats one of those things its always done. No idea. I dont see it as a problem currently as it was a one time thing in the 800 times a year, minimum, i start my car.. 12 times sense this case, no probs. Only change..no flooding rain xD
  9. Well. 2014 spark, CVT, technically there's a recall from awhile back about the CVT reprogramming. My dad ( 2014 CVT as well ) did it, and claimed it made his car drive worst, where it takes forever to get to 40mph, etc. Mine is a lot more snappy & quick accelerating...doesnt take long at all to get 0 to 45. So long ago we figured we'd wait to do mine, as its always done fine and worked flawless, unlike his. Last week friday it was raining/flooding very hard. Enough that a lot of my drive home was random pull-arounds from puddles on the road. Hot humid day, so I was running AC + Recirculation. Which with my spark, makes it fricken FREEZING in the car, even when its 90F outside. I dont notice much performance slack, when running AC. Theres a little bit with acceleration, but given higher RPMs, works all the same. Got home. parked the car in the garage, shut it off, and it sat for 2 days...until monday. When I got in the car and turned it on, it started just fine. AC turned on and so did recirculation. Before I even shifted to reverse to backup, the engine light started to blink, headlights dimming, RPMS below 1000, and car shaking. Progresively getting worst I shut the car off, figuring it was the best to do. I assumed perhaps the belt or something maybe frozed up a bit from all the rain flooding, then sitting for 2 days. As sometimes when I first start the car, you can hear a little rub-noise, like a belt or something. I then assumed, maybe the car being off for 2 days...AC on ( speed 1 ), and recirculation on, perhaps it was too much 'load'...so I turned the AC and circulation off, and started the car again. That time the car started up ( just the same as last time ) and when kicked to reverse had no issues at all. Its been a few days now, and well.. like always.. turn the key and instant ignition. So....What could cause this? Could this have been just some really odd random fluke? Possibly due to belts or something locking up due to heavy rainfall & sitting for a few days? Too much load on the engine for the low idle RPMs? I usually do have my AC/circulation off, before i turn off the car..and turn it on. But aside that, the car sounded perfectly normal that day.. and ever since ( and always before ) never had a single issue with it. Car has always started instantly. CVT always acts great. 27.4K on my spark and got zero complains really on how it acts, aside the 5-8 second speeding up delay around 30-40MPH. Once past that, you start hearing a quiet whine/sssss sound that gradually increases pitch as you speed up.. I always assumed this was a flywheel, as when i slowly come to a stop, i hear that noise decreasing pitch. I always joked to my friend it sounds like a mini turbo whine that mimics engine rpms only when accelerating and decelerating, like a flywheel. Thats normal though, been that way since freshly driven off the lot. But ya. Just curious if i should be concerned. Working perfectly fine currently.
  10. Its personal taste. Having a 10" sub in the rear makes them pretty useless, and give 100W fronts, they'reloud and clear enough to full the space and sound the same, as if i fader the fronts to -10db just to hear the 6" rears. Ive gone a few weeks with no rears and honestly noticed no difference. I dont agree with the super audio nuts out there either but. I do prefer to have all sound infront of me and the sub just fills the car. Gives a rave feel, speakers are all in front of you. So thats what im after. I dont listen to 4 channel surround music. Just 2. I still have, and run rears. But only when i have back passengers. Else I just keep the fronts active. I can balance them out and make the sound come from the center of the car. But that just sounds really weird to me. Its not surround sound music. The more i try both ways, the more im starting to like fronts only
  11. It can vary i think car to car. For example: 2014 car, Was bought brand-new when I got it. No crashes, no hard-breaking, regular driving at 27,000 miles so far to date. 98% of the time it will accelerate from a stop, pretty quickly. 2% of the time it will be sluggish and have a mindset like "Uhhhhh....oh...you want me to go? ummmmmm.. okay!!!" and rpms go from low to like 3000-4000rpms suddenly, after moving like 10ft at slow speed. MOST of the time, it'll just take off nice and quick when commanded to. I also notice with my car, around 30-35MPH, when im on a road going from 0-55 leaving my foot at a constant level, the car climbs in RPMs at a constant rate. Right at 35MPH, that constant-speedup stalls for about 5 seconds, then the CVT goes into its "second gear" i guess and suddenly we're back to speeding up at a constant rate again, and it'll do this to 55...60..70..whatever speed I'm trying to go to. but it will always, have that short-stall, around 35mph. I just naturally assumed this was some 2nd-shift/set in the CVT system. NOW! Where this gets weird, my dad owns the same car, but in 2015 model. His car, drives a lot different than mine. Doesnt accelerate near as fast, takes him quiet awhile of traveling up the road, until it finally kicks into the higher speed. Put our sparks side by side and mine out-beats his by a LONG shot. Yet, we both have the same series spark. Just a 2015 for him. He feels mine is a lot more peppy and has a lot more get-up-and-go. I dont 'race' my spark but its got me habbits to be peppy and take advantage of that. Friends with full-size cars and much more HP, tend to have to really step on the gas and spin RPMS way up to take off as quick as my car does, from a stop..and im just like "Oh..didnt even relize I took off that fast? Wasnt even giving her any gas..hardly touched 2000rpm.." But its a light car. I'd expect that. Always way ahead of everyone when the light turns green, and its not at all intentional, im just normally accelerating. Also, as mentioned above, I to notice the lower 25-20s theres like this odd 'breaking' feel. Like automatic engine breaking. I always wondered what the F that was. Sometimes I hate it, as i expect to coast not slow down. Othertimes I dont mind it, because when im on the highway or a main road, i dont use my breaks that much to slow down 10-20MPH, i just let off the gas and watch the speed gauge drop after a second. I just assumed its because light car. wind dynamics.. But especially when going 20-25, you really notice this weird breaking. But. To the dealer ( different dealers as I got my car elsewhere ) Both cars...are said to be fine, and running within expectations.
  12. Considering how compact these cars are, i kinda figured there wouldn't be any room for anything inside..and that the plastic is likely less than an inch away from the metal bits. I figured if i want to have door speakers, ill probably have to do a typical car audio fabrication method of taking a glassfiber mold and making a custom panel that can attach right on top of the existing panel. Because the whole cup-holder area is recessed in, this is possible to do, without putting speakers in the way of the drivers foot/leg. Its a hassle and requires you to know how to craft..but thats mostly fine with me. I never use those slots or cupholders personally...and much rather have sound space over never-used space
  13. Curious, for anyone who has popped their door panels off, what the insides look like. I'm taking some modification ideas into account, and I'm just curious if someone happens to have one on hand, from work they've done, if they took a picture. I know how they come off, as I've found pictures from ebay auctions showing what these panels look like front and back. I'm just trying to figure out if there's much space behind them, if if the plastic panel is pretty much butted up against the metal inside the door. Considering the idea of door-speaker additions. I learned I have the option to buy virgin-new OEM door panels if I wish, to modify, so i have the stock ones unmodified ( Tho honestly i plan to run the car until it doesnt run anymore so I really dont care in that sense, but I still plan on it ). But before I get any crazy ideas of going the fabrication rout of fiberglass+molding+vinyl wrapping my own custom door pods, as I have access to tooling & cutting lasers, I figured IF.. i so happen to be lucky, and theres some decent gap space behind the plastic trimming, that would make for a much easier ( and more creative options ) design, for door speakers. I'm not really asking anyone to just go out and pop a door panel off for this, I just figured someone has gotta have pictures they took, when they did work inside the door. Google is not resulting in anything, besides the back-side of the plastic trim. Picture pulled from ebay
  14. As another small update to this project, I put the 6" JLs in the rear, full-range. I know in the car audio world, You will find a lotta people who say "Its all about front stage -- Shouldnt need rears at all unless its for back-seat passengers" But everyone has a taste. I dont go for a "concert" feel. Where the sound is all coming from the front-stage of the stadium your in. Being of younger generation, my taste is in EDM -- Rave scene, where sound commonly comes from all corners of the room. So in the car, things are fadered/delayed so the sound has a more open-room feel, and feels like its coming from all around you, not just infront. I like to balance it out so i hear the front/rears evenly, to give more 'depth' in my mind, as when I had fronts-only, i couldnt bare to listen to nothing coming out behind me, aside a subwoofer even tho my fronts were able to produce far enough volume. That said, pretty happy with the setup so far. Running 50% volume is pretty much at the "too loud" level for me, stupidly loud with 5's and 6's in the car. Speakers have no issues running at 75% volume, even 100% volume, with zero distortion. But by then, volume levels are at the point where a second of silence, to a instrument hit, startles you. Way beyond my music-listening comfort zone. BUT its nice to know they can handle it, and still sound crazy clear. Putting that all into considerations. I'm very undecided if I want to leave things as is or not. Seeing I have 5" holes in the fronts now. Really temps me to save a little money monthly, and finish off the project for good, by putting in components, and because I want to assure I dont go "Oh ill upgrade these again!" after some months, I'd save up, and assure I do it the first time...Would either be the JL-Audio ZR525-CSi or the Morel-Hybrid 502s Both JL and Morel seem to be known as really high quality, high grade products...But I know sometimes JL Prices are a bit steep for what you get. Though, I've seen $5,499.99 6.5" components at Morel. Have to really do my research, but the fact the JLs are more common and have hundreds of reviews, Vs just a couple on the Morels, kinda makes it more tempted to go towards them. But its just a thought. Like said, the current setup does play clear/loud. But I know component setups can also do wounders and makes your ears re-learn what "clear" sounds like...
  15. Thanks, I'm really glad it worked out, that theres enough room in the side trimming and such...to run the cables so the cab doesnt have anything going under the mats. No risk of snagging cables, no risk of moving seats resulting in cables getting pinched.. It mostly just sucks that this was a dynamic build for me, and a lot of new things to me as well. First time ever doing car audio modifications. So I had no idea how to remove trimming/covers and made the mistake of using metal screw drivers at first. So stuff like the speaker covers, have some marks due to that. Obviously now I use proper plastic wedges. But, I do often transport a bit of things and I just kinda accepted stuff like scratches, are going to happen anyways I'm currently in the process of replacing my rears with 6.5" coaxials. The 45-4000hz component midbass are sounding pretty muddy, when running quality up front. The rear stuff was all laser cut. Helped that I know someone who can cut up stuff for free. But now that I've gone through everything..At least now if a friend with a chevy spark/sonic asks for help..I have an idea what I'm doing now. Its all fun for me. I trust my own work more than I do paying for someone else to do it. I'd be to paranoid & double checking everything they did for mistakes. Woulda loved to beef up the alternator wires, aka the "Big 3" kits. But I noticed the alternator is Waaaay under the car/engine. Is there a service panel under the car to get to it? Or do you literally have to pull the engine out to get to it? I don't have plans to mess with it, I'm just curious how they would. I figured if my alternator ever goes fluky down the road, I'd request a higher amp one. So far the system seems to handle it fine. Battery voltages are happy. Lights dont dim..etc.