cornflakes

Spark Member
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    193
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About cornflakes

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • Region
    Canada Ontario
  • Location
    Toronto
  • Current Vehicle
    Ford Focus
  1. Well the sound went away shortly after all on its own! I'm 99% sure now after doing some research that it was some object that got caught inside my brake wheels....it rolls around in their or scraped with my brake disc but it must've came out or got dislodged...thank goodness, it was a very embarrassing noise.
  2. Been awhile but I have a question to ask. Something unusual happened today when I was driving. I went over a rough patch on the road and then I noticed my car was making a strange noise....sounded kinda like a scratching/scraping of metal sound coming from possibly near the wheels? It sounded like the screeching sound of trains on the tracks. I went outside and took a look around and nothing that I could see was damaged or sticking to the wheels. It's pretty embarrassing when other people look at you cuz they hear this loud annoying screeching/scraping sound of metal coming from your car. Interestingly, it didn't make that noise when I went in reverse, only forward. Nothing else was wrong with the car per se...no vibrating, physical changes to the feel of the car, just a noise. I couldn't drive faster than say 20 km/h cuz I was really unsure if I might damage something more. I parked for about 10 minutes and when I came back, the sound disappeared. The only change I made was that I turned on the AC. When I turned the AC off, the sound didn't come back either. Still not sure what it was. Should I get it checked out? I drove home about 20 km and the sound never came back....seems like it's fine now? Any ideas what it could be?
  3. Looking for new tires and I have to choose between Hankook or Kumho tires because of where I am located. I was looking some up but couldn't find much except Hankook Ventus V12 EVO 195/55/16 tires were rated very good. Anyone else can recommend any tires from either Kumho or Hankook for the Spark? Also, what is the stock offset of 2010-2013 Spark? If I want a great offset (so the tires stick out of the wheel well just a tad more) does that mean I have to buyer wider wheels or can offset be adjusted even with the current stock wheels I have? (ie like using spacers or something).
  4. Yes, I will take a picture some time just to show where the wire was rubbing on the inner rear bumper and must've got cut or slightly torn where it exposed the wire. The mechanic taped it up and covered it with a nice plastic tubing....i praised him on having a good eye for finding that small little tear in the wire.
  5. car horn was replaced with a new oem one, they had to remove the bumper to do it (process was $40 alone for the bumper removal). eletrical issue fixed, turns out it was just a short from a couple wires that were partially torn or exposed. Hope its all good now.
  6. Wow, great job! You were right. I'm in the service center now and the mechanic found a wire (red and green i think) that had a minor tear and some wire exposed and may have been burnt too. He told me it was a short and this is what was most likely causing the blown brake light fuse. The car horn was also replaced with an OEM one. They had to remove the bumper to do it. That cost me $40 just to remove the bumper. With the new horn, the bumper removal fee, 4 tire rotations, and replacing the back wiper arm (broken), the total cost today was $106. Hopefully there will be no more electrical issues.
  7. The brake light issue actually WAS the fuse. It was a blown fuse (the 15A one for electrical) which is located inside the car underneath the dash bottom left side. My small town local mechanic replaced the fuse and bam, the brake lights were back on working fine. It worked fine for the next 2 days until today when I went to the Chevrolet car service center to get the car horn checked out. I didn't tell them about the brake light issue I had. After the inspection and telling me to come next week because they had no time to check my car horn issue today, I tried to turn on the car and the same problem happened again. The brake lights weren't working so therefore I couldn't start the car with the push start button. I turned it out the alternative way which was to just hold the start button for 7 seconds. When the car started, I noticed that everything was on, my fans were on near full and AC was on. The technician must've turned them on when he did the inspection. That led me to believe that I think the brake lights stop working because the fuse gets blown when AC is turned on. It never happened before but the first time it happened, it was when I had the AC on. It makes me think it might be related.
  8. Interesting. Took the car in today to a Chevrolet service center....they took a look at my car and tested the fuses I assume. Then after about 10 minutes, tech guy came back to me and explained that they would need to open up the steering wheel but they had no time today. Huh? They still had 3 hours of operating hours to go before closing time. I guess they had a lot of bookings and I just came in cold without an appointment. So he told me to come back next week (since I can't make it on a weekday). So it sounds like the car horn issue is not the fuse or the horn itself but maybe a connection issue inside the steering wheel or some wiring/electrical issue. Here's the interesting part that is related to my brake light issue. I'll probably write this twice in my other thread about the brake light issue but just thought I'd mention it here also. The brake light issue actually WAS the fuse. It was a blown fuse (the 15A one for electrical) which is located inside the car underneath the dash bottom left side. My small town local mechanic replaced the fuse and bam, the brake lights were back on working fine. It worked fine for the next 2 days until today when I went to the Chevrolet car service center to get the car horn checked out. I didn't tell them about the brake light issue I had. After the inspection and telling me to come next week because they had no time to check my car horn issue today, I tried to turn on the car and the same problem happened again. The brake lights weren't working so therefore I couldn't start the car with the push start button. I turned it out the alternative way which was to just hold the start button for 7 seconds. When the car started, I noticed that everything was on, my fans were on near full and AC was on. The technician must've turned them on when he did the inspection. That led me to believe that I think the brake lights stop working because the fuse gets blown when AC is turned on. It never happened before but the first time it happened, it was when I had the AC on. It makes me think it might be related.
  9. thanks skids. Yes, it might be related but I think only at the electrical/circuitry level. The brake light switch is actually no problem at all. The mechanic told me it was perfectly fine. My start push button is an aftermarket brand the previous owner had installed in the car since sparks don't come with it OEM (at least my model year 2010...not sure if the new ones now come with push start). I'm going to take it into an actual service center hopefully this weekend and they can tell me exactly what the problem was with the horn. Thinking outside the box here, but is it possible that if something is iffy with the car's electrical system, that it could prematurely burn out light bulbs and maybe other electrical parts faster than normal? Just curious because I remember when I got the car last year, I had to replace the fog lights and the tail lights because they were burnt out. I thought to myself, for a car that had only 28k km on it, the lights burnt out awfully fast. About only 10 months or so ago, I purchased rear bumper LED brake lights in replacement for the reflectors. I just noticed that one of the LEDs already went out....just one tiny dot is out but the rest are still working fine....just looks funny when looking at it cuz you can see that one dark spot where the LED is dead. That's pretty quick for it to already die, especially for an LED? So I just wonder if maybe something in the system is electrically unstable and is causing spikes or surges or something periodically that might burn out electrical parts like bulbs or wiring? Or is that something I shouldn't worry about because that's what a fuse is for? All the fuses are fine and none were blown.
  10. that sounds like what he might have done to correct the issue temporarily. Maybe he checked the ground wire, did something to it, and the electrical was back and working to the brake pedal and brake lights. Does this make sense? I'm not sure what a ground wire is, where it is, and what it does for the car good and bad when working and not working. Is it located under the steering wheel where the brake pedal and the inside fuse box is? That's where he was when he somehow got the brake lights working again.
  11. fuse is good......it might be an electrical issue (wiring) ...but i guess still possible the horn could be dead but seems unusual for that to be the case considering the car is not old, horn barely used, and I've been having some kind of electrical issue pertaining to the brake lights.
  12. great news, the balancing of the tire did it. No more shaking steering wheel at 100km+. Smooth as before.
  13. Ok, the mechanic in my little town took a look at it and he checked everything with the ohm/volt device(?). He said that it was not the brake switch either. The brake switch was perfectly fine he said. I don't know exactly what he did but he was under the dashboard of my car and then suddenly I saw the rear brake lights turn and he was able to start the car perfectly with the push button, too (which requires one to depress the brake pedal while pushing the start button). Since we weren't talking in english and I'm not fluent in his language, I couldn't fully understand everything he said. I was trying to find out exactly what was the cause then so I can make a note of it and maybe learn something. The best I got out of what he said was that it had something to do with the electrical line. He said that the electricity was dead. I don't know what he meant by that. Then I don't know exactly what he did to get the electrical power back but he didn't change out any parts or add anything. But the power came back on from the front to the back of the car and he said that it would require much more time and effort to find out what is causing the power drain. He said something else in the car is probably drawing more power than others and it's what killed the electricity from the front to the back (brake signals). He got it back on somehow and he told me that it could happen again anytime (the power gone/dead). Then he said I should take it in to an actual service center and get it examined to find out. He charged me a whopping 20 bucks though. I was a bit surprised the price was that stiff for just a short looksy under the hood, the fuse box, tested the ohm/volts and under the dashboard. It really only took about 30 minutes. Not sure why he charged me 20 bucks and the fact that this isn't really fixed since he said it could happen again at anytime. So I'd really like to know what exactly he did to get it to work again that didn't require him replacing any parts. Either he just tweaked with a wire/plug or used something to inject some power (like a car battery starter).....don't know. Right after he got the power back to the brake lights, I also asked him about my car horn and wanted to know if it was a fuse, the actual horn, or some electrical issue.....when he pushed the horn, it actually made a sound for the first time since months when it stopped. But it only worked once. After that he kept pressing it and the car horn didn't work again, but the power to the brakes was still working as he turned off the car and turned it back on just to see. So he said he thinks the car horn issue is something to do with electrical inside the steering wheel ....not an actual problem with the horn. I wonder if the horn issue is related to the brake light issue and the drawing of lots of power somewhere that is killing the power. He did mention something about my add-ons. I added on LED rear bumper brake lights and LED side mirror turning signals about 7 or 8 months ago. Could any of those be drawing too much power that it would cause this "dead electricity"?
  14. thanks for the reply. I appreciate long responses with more indepth information. The more the better for me to learn. Sorry, I don't know what a tie rod is. I'll look it up. Actually, I'm going for a little stroll soon, so I'll be able to find out if the shaking steering wheel still happens or not at 100km/h.
  15. All happened recently: -car horn doesn't work (not sure if its the horn itself, the fuse or the circuits?) -brake lights dont work (most likely an electrical issue or just a brake light switch), this also affects my starting the car since its a start button and requires the use of the brake pedal signal...now i have to remote start it or hold the push button for 7 seconds. -tire suddenly flattened, got the nozzle replaced -now car steering wheel shakes at 100km/h (either bad tire or the issue was balancing tires) -today someone played around with my rear wiper blade and it broke off..not just the blade, the whole piece so i have to replace the whole piece.... which leads me to my question, how much is it to replace the entire rear wiper arm? (not just the blade but the whole mechanical arm?) ...i think the car is angry at me. Why? Because I discussed selling it recently inside the car where it could hear everything I said. It hates me for wanting to dump it and sell it or trade it in. That's why it's doing all these bad things to me now. I wonder what's next.