Retired old Gearhead

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Everything posted by Retired old Gearhead

  1. My 2013 Spark came with the factory conventional oil. I was told the 'oil life monitor' was calibrated at the factory for conventional oil. I use synthetic and just change it once a year.
  2. Excellent!..Always try before you buy. I recently had a problem with my Cable TV and internet at the same time. I have two different providers for each tv and no internet. It was decided to call my internet provider as both use the common TV cable with a splitter. I was on hold so hung up and tried to see if I could resolve it. I took the splitter out of the equation and hooked the tv and internet modem direct to main cable from wall. Each worked fine without the splitter. Found a spare splitter in toolbox, installed and now they both work with correct speed and all channels. So sometimes it is better to use knowledge and common sense based on elimination before calling for service or replacing a car part...OK...'Nuff said on that... . .
  3. Nice explanation and excellent diagram!
  4. Bobby...Don't go by sound..go by function..try it and see if it still works as expected.
  5. I'd go by 10Kmi for the rotations and one year 10Kmi as well for synthetic oil which you can change to at any time. That way you make one trip for rotation and oil. Synthetic will improve mileage and engine life.
  6. If the lights do not come on all the time and the car runs normally, it is probably a minor issue such as a sensor. I would just drive it and if the car runs abnormally and or the lights stay on...then take it in. Mostly these things are under powertrain warranty if they are causing the car not to run properly. The posts on the longer thread relate mostly to the 2013 spark with a recall and fix regarding the PCV valve failure. This was fixed on the 2014. That's really the best I can come up with without actually driving the car. BTW..check your oil and coolant tank for proper levels..Unlikely that is the cause..but just to rule that out. Often these lights come on with regard to higher than normal emissions due to a dirty sensor and as long as the car idles and runs OK that is likely a temporary issue. Hope that guides you in the right and inexpensive direction...might also be a fouled or bad plug or coil, but that would make the car idle and run rough and is very inexpensive to fix.
  7. I have over 175,000mi on my 2013 4sp-Auto issues and runs like 65Kmi out of the factory front brake pads/rotors. I use synthetic 5w20...never burns more than 1/4qt of oil between 7,500Kmi/18 month changes.
  8. Paint

    May not adhere well after 3 months and is not required. A polishing/buffer rotary tool can fix that.
  9. Ha,ha...excellent video but I think the main issue here is the 6 second lights..I would have totally lost it!!!
  10. Bobby, The drag on the electrical is very low and with the Spark being want to be seen. Most people, when deciding to pass on a single lane highway look for lights coming at them as all cars have them and you could easily be missed in the quick scan of approaching cars and if the resulting accident ever comes to court...well you get my drift...
  11. The colder the ambient outdoor temp...the lower your gas mileage.
  12. Nice looking car. Judging by the tires..looks like about 30-40Kmi on it? Also looks like time for a tire rotation. I have close to 150Kmi on my 2013 4Sp-Auto tranny...I drive it hard and no issues at all. I use synthetic oil and sometimes go 1.5 yrs between changes..I only change the oil when the oil life % reading is at 10%. Burns no noticeable oil between changes. Still get the same gas mileage when it was will probably enjoy this car for some years to come.
  13. Try turning the steering wheel to the right after the key is out.
  14. Just a fun & light topic: What was your first car, best car and worst car you have owned? I'll start. First car was also the best car I have owned. A 1969 metallic blue (repainted-used) VW Carmen Ghia. A two seater with only about 50hp I loved that car even though it had no heat or AC. Modified the stock muffler and it really had a good deep sound. I and my GF drove that car all over the US and never ever had any problem other than the windshield wipers would fall off until I found a way to keep the bolts tight with 'LockTight'. Little sport steering wheel and four speed made it feel sporty. Had to adjust the valve tappets every 5K miles and adjust the clutch. The sparkle blue metallic paint job really made it stand out. After 160Kmi it was stolen and never seen again. Worst car I ever owned was an expensive 1997 Volvo V70 all wheel drive sedan. Excellent handling and power. Rust started showing up the 2nd year we had it (Florida) and then the wheel bearings went, the ABS braking shortly after. This was followed by all wheel drive problems and the list goes on and on and on. Nothing but problems in the 3 yrs we drove it. Electrical issues were the last straw and ended up selling it for a fraction of the price paid. I think it was assembled in New Brunswick Canada. We have a new Range Rover Sport and really like that very well made car..but only a few months into it, it is too early to give it a rating. Our current Spark can also be considered one of the best value cars as we have had no issues in the almost 60Kmi and is one of the best handling cars I have owned. What's your first, best, worst story??
  15. Have them check the gas peddle control module.
  16. Your dipstick level shows 3/4 of a quart down from full. This is not unusual in a new car engine break-in period of 5Kmi. Keep an eye on your level because once the rings/valves are properly seated during break-in there should be not more than 1/4 qt. used.
  17. It is entirely normal for your model. Most buyers would test drive the car and test out, or at least ask about the features and options. The 3rd party email with ON-STAR was probably for sales people to demonstrate this feature to people who asked about the features of that model. You have a good car without the CVT problems if you have the manual tranny. As Tozzi said...spend some time with the nicely illustrated manual for your new Spark....
  18. Normal temps for the 1.2L engine is between 80°C-102°C and the 1.4L engine is just slightly lower. Temps properly top out at 220°F max.
  19. I let my gas level go down to almost at the "almost empty" pump shaped light and made some quick turns and long slow turns. Sputtered a bit and almost stalled at the longer sharp turns only...Short sharp turns were uneventful ..guess the pump/lines still had some gas in it during the short turn period...
  20. When you make a sharp turn the gas moves to one side of the tank and the fuel pump is in the center of the tank, so it could be sucking air on the turns with less than 1/4 tank of gas. Try keeping the fuel at 1/2 or higher and see if that solves the problem. This normally does not happen, but a weak or partially blocked fuel pump or fuel line filter may contribute to this issue. I have had this happen on a previous car with a big V8 that had a high fuel demand and it would shudder or stall on sharp or long turns when the fuel was under 1/8 or less remaining in the try a full tank and see how low on fuel you can go before it shows up again. If it happens with a full tank, the it is most likely a fuel pump issue or a slight blockage in the fuel delivery system between the tank and injectors. That's my best guess.
  21. After 600mi change the oil to synthetic. This gets rid of factory & break-in crap in the oil. That's a really good 'mod' for the long term of your engine and gas mileage. Keep tires at 37psi for good handling and gas mileage. Go to walmart and buy the cheap green tire shine spray and after doing the tires spray and wipe down the engine when cool..keeps it a shiny silver color..try to avoid hoses so they don't collect dust.
  22. Yup..Bobby correct on all counts. Both cars I do the 7,500mi or 1.5yrs with synthetic and at 7.5Kmi the oil is still fairly clear and the engines cannot be heard running from outside or inside the cars..My mechanic says I can go 2yrs without issue as long as some trips are long enough to burn off condensed water. An easy way to check for gas or water in the oil is to place a single blotter white sheet and let one drop of oil from the dipstick fall on it. Gas in the oil will form and light brown ring around the oil spot and water a outer light yellow ring. Depending on the width of the rings you can make a determination..we used this method on piston aircraft and heli's in the field along with some common sense with a visual examination..Heli's are very fussy about oil contamination while something like a DC-3 is not, but while in the humid jungle regions we had to keep an eye on the water content.
  23. That sounds correct Tozzi...I was going by the 2013 Spark...and you're right about those tires eating the outer tread area...I now have 201/15/50 and find them a bit smoother ride and still handles well without the outer tread wear. I keep them at 40psi..5psi above recommended.
  24. Old or not, the tire pressure should be 40psi min. & not 37psi on the 185/15/55 tires. Don't expect Tozzi to bail you out of this one...
  25. I, and I'm sure other members would would be interested to hear from owners who have 40Kmi or more and what, if any, issues you have had. I think the wheel bearing failure is now becoming more common as is the drivers seat stitching coming apart. The bearing issue has been narrowed down to two causes: Defective inner seal on the bearing assembly from a 3rd party supplier (some manufacture dates causing grease loss) and incorrect install of bearing/hub at the factory resulting in loose or off center bearing contact..again some manufacture dates. When posting, it would be helpful to include the year, model and the build date (on the sticker on door center frame) date is very helpful in determining which dates have a common problem. I have slightly over 40Kmi on my 2013 1LT Auto...built:1/13. So far only the PCV recall done before failure. Burns no noticeable oil (5w20 synthetic) between 4,500mi oil changes bearings and seat upholstery: no issues.