Retired old Gearhead

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Everything posted by Retired old Gearhead

  1. Try turning the steering wheel to the right after the key is out.
  2. Just a fun & light topic: What was your first car, best car and worst car you have owned? I'll start. First car was also the best car I have owned. A 1969 metallic blue (repainted-used) VW Carmen Ghia. A two seater with only about 50hp I loved that car even though it had no heat or AC. Modified the stock muffler and it really had a good deep sound. I and my GF drove that car all over the US and never ever had any problem other than the windshield wipers would fall off until I found a way to keep the bolts tight with 'LockTight'. Little sport steering wheel and four speed made it feel sporty. Had to adjust the valve tappets every 5K miles and adjust the clutch. The sparkle blue metallic paint job really made it stand out. After 160Kmi it was stolen and never seen again. Worst car I ever owned was an expensive 1997 Volvo V70 all wheel drive sedan. Excellent handling and power. Rust started showing up the 2nd year we had it (Florida) and then the wheel bearings went, the ABS braking shortly after. This was followed by all wheel drive problems and the list goes on and on and on. Nothing but problems in the 3 yrs we drove it. Electrical issues were the last straw and ended up selling it for a fraction of the price paid. I think it was assembled in New Brunswick Canada. We have a new Range Rover Sport and really like that very well made car..but only a few months into it, it is too early to give it a rating. Our current Spark can also be considered one of the best value cars as we have had no issues in the almost 60Kmi and is one of the best handling cars I have owned. What's your first, best, worst story??
  3. Have them check the gas peddle control module.
  4. Your dipstick level shows 3/4 of a quart down from full. This is not unusual in a new car engine break-in period of 5Kmi. Keep an eye on your level because once the rings/valves are properly seated during break-in there should be not more than 1/4 qt. used.
  5. It is entirely normal for your model. Most buyers would test drive the car and test out, or at least ask about the features and options. The 3rd party email with ON-STAR was probably for sales people to demonstrate this feature to people who asked about the features of that model. You have a good car without the CVT problems if you have the manual tranny. As Tozzi said...spend some time with the nicely illustrated manual for your new Spark....
  6. Normal temps for the 1.2L engine is between 80°C-102°C and the 1.4L engine is just slightly lower. Temps properly top out at 220°F max.
  7. I let my gas level go down to almost at the "almost empty" pump shaped light and made some quick turns and long slow turns. Sputtered a bit and almost stalled at the longer sharp turns only...Short sharp turns were uneventful ..guess the pump/lines still had some gas in it during the short turn period...
  8. When you make a sharp turn the gas moves to one side of the tank and the fuel pump is in the center of the tank, so it could be sucking air on the turns with less than 1/4 tank of gas. Try keeping the fuel at 1/2 or higher and see if that solves the problem. This normally does not happen, but a weak or partially blocked fuel pump or fuel line filter may contribute to this issue. I have had this happen on a previous car with a big V8 that had a high fuel demand and it would shudder or stall on sharp or long turns when the fuel was under 1/8 or less remaining in the tank...so try a full tank and see how low on fuel you can go before it shows up again. If it happens with a full tank, the it is most likely a fuel pump issue or a slight blockage in the fuel delivery system between the tank and injectors. That's my best guess.
  9. After 600mi change the oil to synthetic. This gets rid of factory & break-in crap in the oil. That's a really good 'mod' for the long term of your engine and gas mileage. Keep tires at 37psi for good handling and gas mileage. Go to walmart and buy the cheap green tire shine spray and after doing the tires spray and wipe down the engine when cool..keeps it a shiny silver color..try to avoid hoses so they don't collect dust.
  10. Yup..Bobby correct on all counts. Both cars I do the 7,500mi or 1.5yrs with synthetic and at 7.5Kmi the oil is still fairly clear and the engines cannot be heard running from outside or inside the cars..My mechanic says I can go 2yrs without issue as long as some trips are long enough to burn off condensed water. An easy way to check for gas or water in the oil is to place a single blotter white sheet and let one drop of oil from the dipstick fall on it. Gas in the oil will form and light brown ring around the oil spot and water a outer light yellow ring. Depending on the width of the rings you can make a determination..we used this method on piston aircraft and heli's in the field along with some common sense with a visual examination..Heli's are very fussy about oil contamination while something like a DC-3 is not, but while in the humid jungle regions we had to keep an eye on the water content.
  11. That sounds correct Tozzi...I was going by the 2013 Spark...and you're right about those tires eating the outer tread area...I now have 201/15/50 and find them a bit smoother ride and still handles well without the outer tread wear. I keep them at 40psi..5psi above recommended.
  12. Old or not, the tire pressure should be 40psi min. & not 37psi on the 185/15/55 tires. Don't expect Tozzi to bail you out of this one...
  13. I, and I'm sure other members would would be interested to hear from owners who have 40Kmi or more and what, if any, issues you have had. I think the wheel bearing failure is now becoming more common as is the drivers seat stitching coming apart. The bearing issue has been narrowed down to two causes: Defective inner seal on the bearing assembly from a 3rd party supplier (some manufacture dates causing grease loss) and incorrect install of bearing/hub at the factory resulting in loose or off center bearing contact..again some manufacture dates. When posting, it would be helpful to include the year, model and the build date (on the sticker on door center frame)...build date is very helpful in determining which dates have a common problem. I have slightly over 40Kmi on my 2013 1LT Auto...built:1/13. So far only the PCV recall done before failure. Burns no noticeable oil (5w20 synthetic) between 4,500mi oil changes bearings and seat upholstery: no issues.
  14. Oh ya! Way too much frontal surface area for 100hp at higher speed, not to mention a cross wind...
  15. Thanx Tozzi..I think we are saying the same thing..I just added some 'old guy' humor to my post.
  16. Just curious, but what is the advantage over the stock rims? Is it for a wider tire?
  17. Ha Bobby! You, once again, are 100% correct. the CVT control does not have AI (Artificial Intelligence)..I think your mind is slowly making adjustments to your driving habits..so on and so forth and the CVT remains as is....We just don't notice it so much when we get older.....
  18. Ya..Shocks, struts etc are held in place by fasteners. Only way they can move is by impact like a collision. As Bobby said..99% of the time it is alignment or most likely balance.
  19. Yup..all good then?
  20. All scan guage units become the 'endpoint' when connected. Some newer models designed to be connected all the time have a pass on connection to the ECM etc..
  21. Ya..have them resolve it the way you described..works generally well...Shaking sounds like wheel balance..all minor stuff...
  22. Almost everyone with the CVT is have one issue or another. 2014 CVT seems to be the most problematic..fix or replace under warranty.
  23. Wise choice with the manual tranny Fraser! You avoided all the CVT issues..I test drove both the 2017 CVT and manual..Night and day. Also very surprized how quiet it is. Stiffer body and tons of features. I'm keeping the 2013 4sp. auto tranny now that I have well over 150Kmi on it with no issues. Recently I bought my brother a 2017 manual and he loves it..had to do it because he was looking at a used all wheel drive car..overpriced and all wheel drive is costly to have fixed if the all wheel drive goes bad. He's very stubborn, but after I took him for a drive to the dealer he loved all the features but didn't have the cash and since I don't like financing of any kind my wife nudged me into a cash purchase. He works in the Marina I sometimes use and works on boat repairs..so I guess he owes me some fixing..Ha..
  24. Most all Scan-guages will always do a bypass...Data goes to scan device and is not sent forward..never drive with that connected unless it is a data gather unit sometimes used by insurance companies or employers to monitor speed, braking etc.
  25. That code refers to the engine thermostat or heater thermostat..check to see if the heater works, if so it is the engine thermostat..have that fixed..could lead to overheating or not hot enough to burn fuel completely and eventually gum up the valve, engine sludge and then the Catalytic Converter overheats due to deposits if left long enough.