Retired old Gearhead

Spark Member
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About Retired old Gearhead

  • Rank
    If it can't be fixed, it's broken.

Profile Information

  • Region
    U.S. Southern Atlantic
  • Location
    Miami
  • Current Vehicle
    '13.Spark.1LT, &'15.Range Rover S.

Recent Profile Visitors

2,287 profile views
  1. Mine was done by by a garage I have used for many years..since he also does my boat he gave me a break on cost. Head was not warped so cost to me was small..under $500. Normally a warped head is replaced and costs range from about $850 to $1,400.
  2. Welcome to the forum to you and Clark..lots of all kinds of info and common problem/issues help on these pages.
  3. Long ago when I lived in the snow belt, I had a rear engine VW Carmen Ghia...same thing..never got stuck.
  4. "Reduced friction, including low-friction piston rings, a low-friction camshaft drive and a low-friction oil pump to increase engine efficiency" Thanx Bobby...The lower friction component aspect stands out for me since this will contribute to a longer component/engine life. I have previously looked into this line of GM engines with their torque at lower and upper rpm's and I think they have a winner on their new LV7. This fairly flat torque aspect is also well suited to a CVT. I have a fairly flat torque at all RPM's on my newer marine engine and it saves on gas while providing lower maintenance and power at all RPM's. I can now do a long cruise at about 1,800 rpm with a larger prop making good speed at a lot less fuel consumption and saving the higher rpm's for rough weather. Good post!
  5. Loose caliper sliding rods. Sometimes sounds like boiling water or marbles....that's my best guess.
  6. Haha Bobby..couldn't agree with you more! I've been saying that for years. Don't forget the pollution caused by battery disposal with all that nasty stuff in batteries that will need to be replaced every 5 years or so. Gas powered cars are now much more efficient than they were even 5 years ago and the emissions are mostly CO2 which is NOT pollution and the vegetation..trees etc need it to produce our oxygen...only car pollution is the carbon monoxide and that is now emitted in VERY low amounts by these newer gas cars...'Nuff said on that.
  7. Interesting article Blue...Just want to say, and have said in previous posts, that I always have a lot of respect for people who are willing to do the research and work themselves. You learn something and get some hands on experience..learn as you go..just don't make the car blow...'Nuff said....
  8. Most likely would work..try a connection and if it sounds OK and no fuses pop...it works.
  9. Ya, I agree with you Bobby..well..mostly...it doesn't hurt to change the factory oil early on. Some units may have more debris and shavings in the oil than others and the tiny filter may be at limit sooner than others. Break-in oil is now used only on rebuilds or larger 'crate' engines and the factory oil is usually natural aspire or a mix of synthetic/natural. As far as a visual on the oil and level, well, that's a given but I do find my oil monitor is pretty well accurate on both the Spark and the Rover..only thing I look for when checking oil is color and clarity...black..it gets changed ASAP and amber has lots of life left.
  10. I use the same battery....Good value and no issues with fit/install and function for the last year or so.
  11. Anything is possible for the right price. In the case of a turbo, might be cheaper and simpler to just do a trade-in for a faster car. Compression at 10.5 for the Spark means the valves are already very close to the piston at TDC..a costly head shave and a change to VVT and sensors, reprogram the ECM would maybe give you an xtra 0.5 compression..still too high for all but a very low end turbo and a huge cost thus offsetting any fuel savings...but like I said in a previous post...anything is possible for a price. Just not practical and I would not like to drive with such a small valve clearance...specially at higher RPM's...
  12. Compression on the Spark 1.2/1.4 is too high for a turbo and this car is not designed to accept a turbo. This page should be renamed "Crazy mods that don't work"..I particularly like the tin-foil mod...Really??
  13. I bought ours mostly for my wife...also retired, who wanted small and easy to park. I thought the spark was a good fit for her and picked up a 2013 auto tranny with 2kmi on it for $10.5K...cash to reduce the interest. I thought I could get about 100K mi out of it without issues. Now well over 160Kmi, no real issues, runs like new and although I also have a big Range Rover V8..I drive the Spark whenever available because it handles so well and parks anywhere. I drive it hard and change the synthetic oil only once every year or so and I am somewhat surprised that it has come this far without major issues. I have had a few bumps and potholes and the wheels never needed alignment and the rear bumper has not shifted as it handle a few back-ins to cement walls..same with front. Brakes seem to last forever since the pads are thick and the car is light. If it wasn't for the fact that the new models all come with a CVT auto tranny, I would easily buy another...since I usually drive it flat out, the CVT is not an option for me. Because of the low initial cost and low trade in value, it's the kind of car you keep until it fails. My next car will also be a small unit and hopefully by then Chevy will have a similar non CVT unit on the market...If not I may get a new Spark manual shift....haha..I can just hear my wife!
  14. My 2013 Spark came with the factory conventional oil. I was told the 'oil life monitor' was calibrated at the factory for conventional oil. I use synthetic and just change it once a year.
  15. Excellent!..Always try before you buy. I recently had a problem with my Cable TV and internet at the same time. I have two different providers for each service..no tv and no internet. It was decided to call my internet provider as both use the common TV cable with a splitter. I was on hold so hung up and tried to see if I could resolve it. I took the splitter out of the equation and hooked the tv and internet modem direct to main cable from wall. Each worked fine without the splitter. Found a spare splitter in toolbox, installed and now they both work with correct speed and all channels. So sometimes it is better to use knowledge and common sense based on elimination before calling for service or replacing a car part...OK...'Nuff said on that... . .