Retired old Gearhead

Spark Member
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About Retired old Gearhead

  • Rank
    If it can't be fixed, it's broken.

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  • Region
    U.S. Southern Atlantic
  • Location
  • Current Vehicle
    '13.Spark.1LT, &'15.Range Rover S.

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  1. Ha..Thanx for the nice words, but I am basically a retired pilot with a background (way back) in aviation mechanics and the car stuff is not much different from the old 'piston poppers' I used to work on before I got my wings. Cars and mechanics have always just been something I was interested in since childhood when my dad bought a used '54 Buick 350 Rocket and we worked on it together. Never worked as a car mechanic but I have restored some older cars and then sold them at a loss..latest and very last was a 69 Roadrunner 426hemi, but basically doing that as a hobby was almost as big a money pit as my boat that I work on as well...OK...'Nuff said on that..but thanx for the comp.
  2. Ha ha..Ya..Nice work on the price haggle Dill!...If they can do car pricing deals they can do it for parts as time you are at a jewelry or other store or chain try the same method and suddenly an $800 item like a watch becomes $550...damaged/dented can of soup suddenly is half price, scratched wrench/battery etc at Walmart same thing. Good luck with the tank install..if you have some silicone grease you can apply that to the tank hose connectors for an easier, better fit and longer lasting seal and connection leak resistant. Also..Bobby..your welcome and I find that site a big help and accurate source for tech and parts for the Spark.
  3. All good advise from the above posters but it does sound to me like the thermostat is the most likely issue since your heater is random hot/cold. Spark has electronic thermostat but as posters above have said, take it to a proper mechanic for a problem like yours and by process of elimination they can find and fix the specific cause of the issue. Codes will help them and a stat test is a good starting point for them. Many cars today have electro thermostats so a trusted mechanic/shop should be able to diagnose that pretty quickly with a good description from you. BTW..Your A/C issue is also related to the thermostat as it will not turn on if the coolant temp is too high.
  4. Total agree with Bobby, Ray and Sparkfanatic, the part you have is for older smaller engine euro Aveo & Spark. Always best to get OEM for the vehicle specific parts...try this site and just punch in your year and type: 1-2l-l4-gas-engine
  5. CVT is not dropping down to first gear when needed...Have the reprogram recall done?
  6. Those floating little balls are most likely oil so I suspect head gasket or some oil getting into coolant..check oil level.
  7. Instrument cluster is a collection of parts connected to various modules and sensors most going through the ECM and all those components cannot go bad at once. ECM is the part that is most likely the issue and can be reprogrammed..if it was completely defective, well, most everything would not work properly and the engine would just not run not the cluster and have someone check out the ECM.
  8. If sound is evident when in is NOT wheel bearings..if the cars runs a smooth idle and drives OK..worry not and just drive it. Could be the air/heat fans making the try to turn the fans off and see if it disappears .. could also be the fuel pump making the noise..fill up the tank to see if that resolves it.
  9. Nice job/buy on the hubcaps..big improvement over stock and a lot less $$ than new wheels!
  10. Certainly worth looking into Rob..Try to come up with a specific list for them. If that approach fails find or go to your trusted mechanic and spill the details trying to be as accurate as you can..Not sure if a reset is necessary and not all issues are electronic, however the ECM does control quite a few functions. Always remember to bring notes as detailed as possible since intermittent issues are always difficult to pinpoint without some details as a starting point to use a process of elimination to find the problem. Most independent mechanics will not touch the Spark CVT's., so CVT
  11. MAS (MAF) will often read defective when it is not..sounds to me like this is a throttle or ECM issue and should be an easy fix for someone who knows and has the right diagnostic tools to connect to the car while the adjustment is being made..dealers have this and some good independent mechanics have this as well..hard to adjust as a DIY on these units since there is electronic controls (ECM) involved.
  12. I agree on this completely..should have been a recall. If not caught in time could very well lead to badly overheated engine, seized pistons, warped head or bent valves and other expensive issues normally covered by drivetrain warranty but dealer can say that it is the owners responsibility to check levels. Fastest way to check while driving is to check to see if you have a functioning air after warm up...level hot air..level empty. I had that issue and had the new tank sprayed with a plastic 'dryout' protection product..don't recall the name but it's supposed to prevent dryout and cracking. This has now been an issue on the 2013-2015 Sparks..2016 onward have a different tank but same lets see how well they hold up.. Some, but fewer Cruze and Sonics have had the same issue. I was told by my mechanic to keep the level no higher than mid seam so the coolant can splash around a bit while driving thus cooling it a bit.
  13. Well Tozzi, I'm not able to pinpoint the issue with the intake hose..probably just grime from occasionally being in heavy traffic, but I can see by the pix of the air filter that the grime is exactly on the area coated on the K&N type filter, even on the slight over-spray on the plastic holder which also became sticky to whatever was coming into the intake..seems like a long drive behind perhaps a dirty diesel or environmental soot in the air as in heavy traffic. I had exactly the same issue with a K&N coated filter on the Spark back in 2014 after alot of driving behind trucks and into construction areas...That is my best guess as the air that enters the filter only comes from the intake point if all other connections before the filter are intact. Nothing to do with the old PCV malfunction as that was only an issue on the 2013 and that issue takes place far after the air has passed the filter and the MAS.
  14. I know what is causing this on the filter but it's not the PCV as that issue takes place far back from the filter's a long story but not a concern as long as you stay away from K&N coated filters that capture all the soot from diesel trucks etc. Check the new filter after a few weeks.
  15. Was the seatbelt defective? With some more details maybe we could help with that issue as the safety issue thing is kind of a grey area.