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  2. 2013 CHEVY SPARK BOUGHT IT BRAND NEW. CURRENT MILEAGE 78,000 HAD THE PCV RECALL DONE BUT LIKE MANY OTHERS IF I HAD TO GUESS THEY REPLACED IT WITH ANOTHER BAD ONE INSTEAD OF ORDERING NEW ENGINEERING CHANGE BECAUSE THAT IS WHAT THEY HAD IN STOCK.
  3. Today
  4. The battery in my G5 (now traded out) was in great shape after 9+ years of use. The HHR (still own) battery after 5 years is still working great. Your Cobalt battery lasted longer. What is common thread here? All those cars had batteries located in the trunk, away from the engine heat! The engine gets lot hotter than heat in Arizona or Florida or Texas.
  5. Bon Voyage gearhead! Stay safe, take enough bottles of drinking water and the .50 caliber! I am sticking with the rented boat called princess cruises.
  6. Yesterday
  7. First determine source of most of the noise. Is it the tires, or the engine compartment, or rear trunk area, or mainly wind noise due to open windows. The 2017 Spark engine has a hood which should help with noise. Additional insulation layer attached to the hood will reduce noise coming into passenger compartment. Try adding insulation to the firewall. The pictures in this thread for applying insulation layer in the trunk and trunk lid could help cut noise. I understand this one of the cheapest car on the market comes with cheap tires. Why is that not expected? Replace with expensive tires known to run quieter. If everything fails, and car noise is still obnoxious, do not wear headphones! Those are illegal in most states. However cotton balls in ears could be the last resort. Just take them out before talking to the officer who pulls you over
  8. Did you have the PCV recall done and if so at what mileage and what is the current mileage. Did you buy it new or used..need that info before we can help.
  9. Ya Bobby, I know how you feel..I'm not that old at 65yrs and retired at 50yrs old, but my warranty expired way back in the 80's some time as well. I pretty well think the CVT issues were all ironed out in the 2017's..Good long torque curve 1.4L aluminum engine helped that issue quite a bit. I also don't like manuals..specially in a small engine due to constant shifting in traffic..younger members like that the way we did back in the day of the V8..sporty. I have test driven the 2017 CVT and found it much improved and very smooth at all speeds..just had one rolling stop where it never dropped to first and kinda chugged off until it revved up and dropped to first then a higher ratio like second..very low rpm's on the highway..something like 2Krpm at 60mph where my 2013 is at 2,700-3,000. The 4speed auto tranny is very solid and responsive with very little slip compared to others I have owned. At 65mph a quick boot down will quickly drop down one or two gears and run at 4-5Krpm's++ and solidly accelerates to 100mph and will come back up to fourth gear (overdrive) at about 85mph. Solid body and suspension on all years and at 130Kmi mine still has fairly clean oil at 7,500mi on synthetic without burning more than 1/4 qt or less..still the same compression and smooth idle and same power as it was when new..totally surprised me with the small high rpm engine that i really drive hard with constant boot downs to accelerate..No real issues and the brake pads lasted longer than any car I have ever had..maybe due to the light weight..got about 60-65K mi out of the factory pads and rotors..OK..'Nuff said on that..gotta work on the boat today..lotsa dirty work with fixtures, aux electrical and some furniture replacement and fixing the A/C and fridge cleanup at the dirty back..hot in there until I get the A/C going properly...
  10. WELL IT SEEMS THAT I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM AS SO MANY OTHERS ON THIS FORUM. OIL CONSUMPTION OIL LIGHT NEVER CAME ON EVEN AFTER BEING 3 QUARTS LOW, LEAKING OIL OUT ALL OVER, CAR HAS BEEN AT DEALERSHIP OVER 10 DAYS THEY DID PROVIDE LOANER VEHICLE THANKS SO MUCH, BUT THEY NEED TO REPLACE SEVERAL GASKETS, ASKED WHY WARNING LIGHT NEVER CAME ON THEY COULD NOT EXPLAIN IT, I SAID MY PROBLEM SEEMS TO BE COMMON WITH THIS YEAR AND MODEL AND THEY REALLY DIDNT HAVE MUCH TO SAY. I ASKED ALOT OF QUESTIONS: ASKED IF ENGINE HAD A PROBLEM WITH #4 CYLINDER SAID THEY DIDNT KNOW IASKED IF THEY COULD CHECK THEY SAID YES. ASKED ABOUT NOISES ENGINE MAKING NO ANSWERS. I ASKED IS THIS COMMON TO REPLACE GASKETS ON A VEHICLE THIS SOON ANSWER NO! ANY SUGGESTIONS ANYONE HAS LET ME KNOW I WOULD APPRECIATE IT.
  11. oil

    I ran out of the free ones too. I just changed my oil myself a few weeks ago with factory filter and Mobil 1. I do notice also it is a little quieter too.
  12. Buy the cheapest price between 2016 & 2017. I agree with Jonboy, nothing much seems to have changed. Dealer will be anxious to unload the 2016 and you can get a much better deal. But here is the caveat...if you plan to trade in after a short time, such as 2 or 3 years, then you will get less for the older model, thus negating much of the price advantage. If you plan to keep the car for 7+ years, then 2016 is a better value for the money.
  13. Last week
  14. Aside from the Activ version that was launched mid-model year, the 2016 is almost a complete carry-over from the 2016. The only changes from the 2016 to the 2017 Spark are the paint colors, lower EPA mileage due to new "more realistic" method of calculating the values. Also, they deleted the "LS" badge from the hatch of the base version.
  15. oil

    I ran out of my free oil changes, next one i'm going back to amsoil oe.
  16. yeah its an OBII scaner plug in with wifi, android phone app, OBD Doctor, what ive learned is these cars have a 105 temp stamped on, but the ECT controlls the TSTAT to open before and controls the car temperature and in case that fails the TSTAT will open at 105, car should run around the day in the 95 to 96 range, fans shut off below 94 so it must mean its cool enough. to much electronics makes it more prone to fail, just my 2 cents.
  17. oil

    Just had oil change done at the dealer today for our Chevy HHR, and found out the dealer uses only full synthetic oil now.
  18. From what I gather, 2013 issues were mainly about oil consumption, and not about the transmission. Probably from people who did not bother to do the recalls. If there was a choice, I would have preferred the geared tranny but in 2017 that is not an available option. I am just too old to put up with a manual tranny. So far, I have no problem with the CVT in my 2017. Actually I like how it performs. I hope it will last 7 years, 70k miles, which is my average trade-in time. I am more worried about me lasting 7 years, since my warranty expired long time ago
  19. congrats and welcome
  20. congrats and welcome
  21. congrats and welcome
  22. congrats and welcome
  23. i was out in Vegas last week took 1 photo
  24. my dad and my girlfriends dad both swear they get better gas mileage with 91 lol dad has a 2006 silverado gf dad has a honda crv
  25. oil

    manual says full synthetic... that's what i use...
  26. Final words..My 2013 Spark auto tranny has about 130Kmi and I know 2 Pizza guys who have well over 175Kmi same 2013 auto tranny..none have ever has any issue..2014-2016 has had one CVT issue after another.
  27. OK..glad it worked....USB sticks are cheap and can store maps movies and music..best and most simple method. I have about 6 with maps, different music and a few movies. Formats that can be played are described in the owners manual..I know nothing about formats or computers and if I can do it..well..you get my drift... I will not be active on this forum each early morning as I usually am..working on the boat for a cruise to the Caribbean islands and maybe up to NYC so I need to get engines ship shape and have some fittings and furniture replaced as well as new fridge and maybe a .50cal for the deck..Pirates everywhere now...It's OK..I'm licensed for all kinds of stuff except my wife may object and have to resort to my carry permits..but I hate to carry..'Nuff said..got computer and WiFi on the boat..
  28. Yup..Could be a short in the starter or even a bad starter solenoid..Still not thinking the key as anything to do with this, but could be the ignition switch (where the key is inserted. Have a trusted mechanic check it all out..nothing major..just a short somewhere or bad starter..nope..replacing the starter is exact work..have it done if needed or if BF can do it with correct knowledge...Just get it all checked out as any good mechanic can find the problem and fix it in one shot..don't fiddle around trying to save $$ as it may get worse..have it done properly and NOT by the dealer..electrical issues are hard to diagnose even with the proper equipment so leave this to the pro's and you will be out $50-$500.
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